Notes:
Identity: How we dress communicates messages about our identity.
Subculture: A group of people within a culture which differentiates them from the larger culture in which they 'belong'.
Stereotyping: A direct expression of beliefs and values that commonly emerge through pop culture and mass media.
*Stereotypes are a result of our need to selectively perceive the environment.
1950's-Word 'Teenager' was invented.
Teddy Boys.
It was an adventurous time as the Teds were the first youth group in England to differentiate themselves as teenagers, creating an entirely new vibrant youth market.
Introduced to England via soldiers.
General style: Knee-length drape coats, velvet collars, suede shoes, elaborate bouffant hairstyles, drainpipe trousers and narrow ties. *Sometimes they wore American style bootlace tie as an alternative.
*Thick crepe-soled suede shoes, known as 'brothel creepers' completed the outfit.
*Thick crepe-soled suede shoes, known as 'brothel creepers' completed the outfit.
Although they were associated to American Rock n’ Roll, they were taking their style from jazz.
Elvis Presley, Bill Haley or Eddie Cochran were their main musical influence.
Elvis Presley, Bill Haley or Eddie Cochran were their main musical influence.
The Teddy Boys held an overtly aggressive overtone and often carried a flick knife like a fashion accessory.
In 1958 the Teddy Boys were involved in the Notting Hill riot where they were conspicuous in racial attacks.
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| Teddy Boy. Source: http://journal.stylealphabet.com/the-teddy-boy-history/ |
1960's-
The Mod's.
They were the 'sharp dressers' of the 60's. Emerging partly from the Jazz modernist of the 50's and partly from working class traditions of competitive dressing. They took on the look of middle-class businessmen.
Wore: Italian-cut, custom made suits (Cecil Gee) Polo shirts(Fred Perry)
Vida Sassoon haircuts
Rode: Lambretta motor scooters
Experimented with drugs.
Influenced by black music: Soul, blue beak, SKA. Bands like The Kinks, The Small Faces.
The Rockers
Wore: Italian-cut, custom made suits (Cecil Gee) Polo shirts(Fred Perry)
Vida Sassoon haircuts
Rode: Lambretta motor scooters
Experimented with drugs.
Influenced by black music: Soul, blue beak, SKA. Bands like The Kinks, The Small Faces.
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| Mod's. Source: http://subculturemods.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/mods.html |
Until the post-WW2 years, motorcycles were associated with wealth and glamour.
The Rockers immersed themselves in Rock n Roll music and fashion.
Music Influence: Elvis Presley, The Shadows, Buddy Holly (Rock n Roll) also known as 'Screw and Smash' music.
Scruffy, masculine, bad boy image.
They hung out at transport cafes projecting nomadic romaticism, violence and anti-domesticity.
Style: Simple. Levis jackets, biker boots and jeans.
*Hated Mod's.
Rode: Traditional 'Triumph' bikes
They hung out at transport cafes projecting nomadic romaticism, violence and anti-domesticity.
Style: Simple. Levis jackets, biker boots and jeans.
*Hated Mod's.
Rode: Traditional 'Triumph' bikes
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| Rockers. Source: http://sakrofi-ahistoryof.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/mods-rockers-on-brighton-beach.html |
Hippies☮☮☮
The Hippy subculture began as a counter-cultural movement that rejected the mores of the mainstream American lifestyle, it spread around the world rapidly.
Philosophies of 'Peace', 'Love' and 'Community'.
Referenced by society as 'Drop outs', however dropping out of mainstream society was encouraged.
LSD was the fore-front of the culture and the use of drugs was common.
The term "Flower Power" was created.
Music and drug orientated, this combined with folk and rock and roll a psychedelic movement in music was encouraged.
Style: Clothing was often second hand.
It wasn't uncommon for both men and woman to have long, natural hair and men with beards.
Lose leather jackets, beaded African jewellery, converse or sandals, head band accessories/flowers, Levi strauss jeans/ flared jeans, acoustic instruments and tie dye.
1970's
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| Hippies, source:http://kingydesignhistory.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/hippie-subculture.html |
Punk
The punk subculture emerged in the UK, USA and Australia in the mid-70's.
The punk subculture emerged in the UK, USA and Australia in the mid-70's.
England's punk scene had political and economic roots.
English youths were essentially angry wit a lot of free time.
Punk fashion emerged out of a London shop called 'SEX' by Malcom Mclaren and Vivienne Westwood.
A number of philosophical and artistic movements were influences on the Pun movement, movements like 'Anarchism'.
Anarchism: A belief in the abolition of all government and the organization of society.
Nihilism also had an influence over the Punks careless character.
Nihilism: The rejection of all religious and moral principles, often in the belief that life is meaningless
Anarchism: A belief in the abolition of all government and the organization of society.
Nihilism also had an influence over the Punks careless character.
Nihilism: The rejection of all religious and moral principles, often in the belief that life is meaningless
Fashion: The look of punk is important because it is a visible expression of the anti-conformity philosophy.
The Punk fashion was basically anti-fashion. They bought a vast array of clothing from vintage shops, including dress shirts, dresses, suit jackets and trousers, and they cut the sleeves off, cut the trousers into knee-length shorts, ripped them and frayed them wherever possible. Both men and women dressed in this style.
Safety pinned denims and leather studded jackets, spiked or mow-hawked hair and doc marten boots were worn by both men and woman, as was make-up.
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| Punks source:http://hannabeth.buzznet.com/photos/punkfashionatitsfine/?id=68347433 |
The Skinhead subculture emerged among the working class youths in London. Named for their shaved heads.
Influenced by West Indian rude boys and British mods, fashion and music wise.
Fashion: Shaved heads, sta-prestjeans, braces and Doc Marten boots.
Music: Reggae (Black slang was often used within their speech) and two toned bands such as Bad Manners, The Selector and The Specials.
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| Skinheads source:http://menstyleadvisor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/03/skinhead-inspiration.html |
1980's
New Romantics
Developed in the London nightclubs.
Musical influence: Visage, Adam and the ants, Duran Duran and Human League.
Fashion: Extravagant and counter sexual clothing and cosmetics. Frilly 'Fop' shirts of the English Romantic period, tailored fashion and grooming weren't uncommon.
Goths
It began in England as an offshoot of the post-punk genre.
The goth subculture has survived much longer than others of the same era, and has continued to diversify.
Influences: 19th century gothic literature/horror films.
Music: gothic rock, deathrock, post-punk, darkwave, Ethereal, Industrial Music and neoclassical.
Fashion: Styles of dress within the subculture range from deathrock, punk and Victorian style attire, dark make-up and hair.
Developed in the London nightclubs.
Musical influence: Visage, Adam and the ants, Duran Duran and Human League.
Fashion: Extravagant and counter sexual clothing and cosmetics. Frilly 'Fop' shirts of the English Romantic period, tailored fashion and grooming weren't uncommon.
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| New Romantics source:http://weheartthemainstream.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/self-representation-in-music-video.html |
It began in England as an offshoot of the post-punk genre.
The goth subculture has survived much longer than others of the same era, and has continued to diversify.
Influences: 19th century gothic literature/horror films.
Music: gothic rock, deathrock, post-punk, darkwave, Ethereal, Industrial Music and neoclassical.
Fashion: Styles of dress within the subculture range from deathrock, punk and Victorian style attire, dark make-up and hair.
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| Gothic source: http://www.fusedmagazine.com/category/fashion/ |
Originated from African-American community in New York.
Evolved after break dancing, graffiti and rapping.
Considered the most influential subcultures in history and is still one of the most popular today in the music and fashion industry.
Fashion: Brands like Nike, Adidas, Kangol hats, bomber jackets and white trainers with flat laces.
Hip Hop was originally frowned upon and was quite underground until the mid 80's.
1990's
Rave
Submerged in the mid 80's.
Acid house parties that were typically all-night dance events where DJ's and other performers would play electronic dance and rave music.
Began in London warehouses in 1988 where hardcore dance music was listened to -> Early 90's companies like Fantasia put on events that then continued into clubs.
Music: Prodigy, 808 Sate.
Fashion:Baggy jeans, long hair/undercuts, white gloves, whistles, glow sticks,
Mid 90's rave faded out and by 95 split into sub-subcultures.
Acid house parties that were typically all-night dance events where DJ's and other performers would play electronic dance and rave music.
Began in London warehouses in 1988 where hardcore dance music was listened to -> Early 90's companies like Fantasia put on events that then continued into clubs.
Music: Prodigy, 808 Sate.
Fashion:Baggy jeans, long hair/undercuts, white gloves, whistles, glow sticks,
Mid 90's rave faded out and by 95 split into sub-subcultures.
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| Rave source:http://feng205subculture.blogspot.co.uk/2007/12/whole-new-way-to-dance.html |
A Non Western Sub-Culture
Popular Japanese Subcultures
Decora
Decora is a Japanese subculture that originated in Harajuku in the late 90's.
Decora is characterised by brightly clothing and accessories.
They are known for collecting stuffed animals, multi-coloured hair clips, bracelets and necklaces.
It was widely emulated internationally and in Japan it was primarily a street fashion (outside Japan it's known as cosplay).
It creates an aura of playfulness and childhood. The toys are often colourful, blink, make noises and are closely related to young children.
Shoes are often oversized and shirts are tight. Baby doll dresses, colourful stockings, bows and mary-jayne shoes is a common 'Baby girl Decora' outfit.
Their hair is usually died pink, blonde or auburn- worn in pig tales or curled.
It's similar to the 'Lolita' style.
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| Decora source:http://kitten.buzznet.com/user/journal/?p=19 |
A movement along Japanese musicians.
Emerged in the early 1980's pioneered by bands like X Japan, D'erlanger and Color.
Characterised: use of make-up, elaborate hair styles, flamboyant costumes and often coupled with androgynous aesthetics.
Music influences: glam rock, punk rock and heavy metal.
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| Visual Kei source:http://www.cracked.com/article_18567_6-japanese-subcultures-that-are-insane-even-japan_p2.html |
