Ideas

I find I'm personally drawn to very natural portraits expressing a lot of emotion based on the personality of the subject. 

I dislike posed images a lot. 

My idea: 
Based on HMV-My inspiration campaign.

Music retailer HMV has been running its 'My Inspiration campaign' for a number of months, inviting leading stars to choose their musical or lyrical inspiration. As the campaign marks the milestone of 100 different artists.

I really support the meaning behind this; celebrities showing the world what inspired them to work so hard. 

This is Madonna's inspiration poster. This is one of my favorites because Madonna is well known as being revealing, over the top and made up hair and make-up wise. Yet in this she's her natural self, she's not trying too hard, she's portraying herself as if she's lost in the words 'Jesus died for somebody's sins, but not mine'. Those were the words that inspired her. 
I also love the soft lighting, making her face look flawless. 

I plan on using regular students to model for me, asking them to personally choose their inspiration, whether musically, artistically or for just living.









I used a model that I personally knew to do some test shots in the studio, hoping to use an image as my final piece but unfortunately I wasn't happy with the results. (below)

EXPOSURES:
I shot in RAW, on manual mode. 
All shots taken were f2.8, 1/125

Evaluation: I found that even though my model was confident but stubborn. She wasn't really paying much attention to my idea and chose to pose how she wanted. 
Technically however I'm happy with the lighting setup. 


I wanted her to convey emotion to fit in with the theme of 'being inspired'. 
I came to the conclusion that I'm going to use a black backdrop and work more with negative space so when I add the 'inspiring quotes' they will look presentable in the negative space. 
Compositionally my image won't be the same either, I've decided to not have my model positioned in the centre as it can be quite boring, I will position the model off centre, possibly to the right looking into the frame. 

Below is the lighting setup. 

Cutting and merging in Photoshop

First I used the magic wand tool (W) to select the back ground on the left side, I then held shift to select the centre background and the right side. 










I then selected 'Inverse', this reverses the selection. 

I then copied and pasted the selection to the background. 

I then went to edit > transform > scale. 
I held down 'shift' whilst dragging the corner of the image to keep it scaled. 
I then noticed an irritating thin white boarder around the dresses. 

I went back to my original dress later, clicked 'modify' and then 'contract'. 

I chose 3 pixels and then continued to copy and paste the dresses to the background. Below is the result. 

As you can see the highlight around the dress is gone. 













I then proceeded to clear any blemishes around. Below is the finished result. 

Advertising Theory

Notes

Purpose of advertising: 

• Self promotion
• Create a desire within the viewer for the product- a desire they did not know they even had. 
• Make money/create awareness 
• Influencing society 

How advertising works:
Making a product look appealing:

• Colour- Adds mood and symbolic reference 
• Composition
• Continuity 
• Positive associations/ connotations equates lifestyle aspirations 
• Using shared cultural values and languages eg, Christmas
• Flattery- making the viewer feel clever
• Humour 
• Shock tactics- helps get the point across, can be disturbing but memorable 
• Semiotics 
• Detonation 
• Catchy strap-line! "Just Do It"-Nike - Short, simple yet effective. 
• Sexuality 
• Text/ Typography - suiting the connotations of the advert 
• Visual reference- Nina Ricci- Snow White, props-locations-models
• Metaphors- softness-Andrex puppy 
• Metonym- where one object represents a category, eg. One child to represent all children
• Parody 
• Sports personalities 
• Rich and luxurious lifestyles- aspirations 
• Celebrates
• Dreams
• Fantasies  
• The stereotypical idea of a 'happy family' having 'family fun' together
• Romance/love
• Nature/natural world
• Beautiful people-sex appeal 
• Ecological issues 
• Logos 

Types of advertising:

Source: http://www.parentdish.co.uk 

This advert is a great example of a 'Public Service' advert. It's aimed at parents alerting them to the potential dangers of sharing a bed with young children. 

By showing a young, defenceless child sleeping innocently inches away from a large, sharp knife, it creates an element of shock for anyone who see's it. Making it memorable.  

The child is a metonym of all other children. 

The text "YOUR BABY SLEEPING WITH YOU CAN BE JUST AS DANGEROUS." It's written in capitol letters, showing urgency.
The colour white is a key factor in this advert. White is usually associated with innocence and purity- the child is lying upon white sheets. White is also associated with doctors, cleanliness and more importantly to this advert- safety. 

Commercial advert.
To the left is Christina Aguilera's perfume advert.  Instantly by using Christina, the target market has opened up to her fans. This advert will be aimed at woman but also the use of sex appeal and nudity might attract males to buy it for their partners ect. 

The use of colour is fantastic, black with red and white all make the advert look pure yet sexy.
The elegance within the font of the name is also glamorous and beautiful- the red also creating a sense of passion.

The strap-line "Sometimes, it's all you need to wear" implies that clothing isn't even needed to wear this fragrance- using fantasy and sex to sell the product. 
This advert could be seen in woman's magazines, fashion magazines and possibly on bus shelters in cities. 

source: http://openfundraising.com

This image is a great example of 'Charity advertising'. It's aimed at everyone.
The words 'Beaten. Neglected. Starved.' capture our attention almost instantly. They are words you don't want to associate with the cute puppy.
The puppy is a metonym of all other animals.
Light blue is associated with health, healing, tranquillity  understanding, and softness; all the things the advert are saying you are IF you "help feed a do like Archie". 
The words that are most important are slightly bigger than the rest- Donation process, heart-warming question, 
shocking horrid words. 

Source: http://www.i-am-bored.com

The image to the left is a hilarious example of a subvert/parody.
It uses humour as a weapon to show a exaggerated version of how unhealthy McDonalds is.
The original strap-line 'I'm Lovin It' has been warped to 'i'm luggin' it', fitting the connotations of this subvert.  
It uses a negative sex appeal to suggest that you will be 'ugly' if you eat this food. 
The well known 'm' for McDonalds logo has been used. 
This subvert was found on a website full of subverts. It's not an advert that would be published in magazines ect. 

Body Language

It's been told that 94% of body language is non-verbal, so of course it's a very important part of taking a portrait.
The slightest difference in your body language can set a specific mood or tell a story.
Props and composition are other key factors that can have an effect.

Arms:
The position of arms is an obvious sign of detecting the mood of a person. For example:If the subject is seated and places their head in their hands comfortably, this can imply boredom.
If the subject places their arms across their chest, this suggests they are feeling uncomfortable and possibly defensive. 

Head:
Overly tilted heads can be a potential sign of sympathy. If a person smiles while tilting their head this can imply they are being playful or even flirty. 
Lowered heads indicate a reason to hide something.
Cocked heads mean that they are confused or challenging you, this can then depend on eye, eyebrow and mouth gestures. 

Eyes
If someone looks to the sides a lot this can be a sign of being nervous, distracted or lying. If someone looks down at the floor a lot, they are probably shy or timid. Feeling negative, or thinking unpleasantly can often lead to staring at the floor.  
Dilated pupils mean that the person is interested.
If their eyes seem focused far away, that usually indicates that a person is in deep thought or not listening.

Here are some pictures I took to show different ways of showing emotion through body language. 

Exposures: f2.8
ISO: 200 
Shutter Speed: 1/125


I loved this shoot, it was fun and I think the use of camera angle helped capture the emotions, as well as the use of arms and eyes. 

Photoshop - Old photo touch up

The image to the left is the image I'm going to practice touch ups on.

I'm going to do this my using the 'Healing brush tool'.
To use it I'll have to press 'alt' click an area that doesn't need touching up and then an area that does.

AFTER

BEFORE

Above is an area of the image before I used touch up and after. I changed the size to 9pixels and the opacity to 50%.

After working for 2 hours, below is my completed version.

Research Task 1

The image below is of Xiao Wen Ju for modelling a 'romantic pastel' look for the March issue of Vogue China.
The photographer is Greg Kadel based is upon Nina Ricci, Marni, Gucci and Chloe designs. 

Even though this is for VOGUE China, it still beholds the Vogue traits. It's a very fair, soft image, making the model look young, fair skinned and beautiful. 

I believe the photographer has used soft boxes and reflectors are around the model to reduce harsh shadows and contrast, one being placed at the right side of her as there is highlight down the right side of her face.

A wind machine or piece of card would have been used to create the sight movement of her hair.

Due to is being a Vogue cover, the photo would most definitely received post production. Probably touch ups of the models skin, removing any blemishes and there is a possibility that her body could have been altered. However there is no obvious post-production signs so I cannot say for definite.

The background is a slightly visible to the eye, being a pastel pink with white in the style of décor  I think this works well to create that soft, pastel, romantic feel.

I also think the choice of clothing, being pure, beautiful colours and the fact they are flowing, lacy, girly materials really help the theme of this shoot. 

Source: http://fashiongonerogue.com/

The image below was taken by a photographer named Benoit Linard.
The background and the base is made out of black card. I imagine the whisk has been hung using wire creating this floating effect.
I found out the exposures are : Shutter speed: 1/250, Aperture: f5, ISO: 100, using a 25mm lens.
Two snoots have been placed either side of the table top set-up. The black card surrounding the subject block any reflected light. 
I don't believe any major post production took place, maybe touch ups and exposure changes. 

source: http://www.diyphotography.net

The image below is 'Stuart Weitzman Fall Campaign by Mario Testino featuring Natalia Vodianova portrait '. 
It was found at 'fashiondailymag.com' 
I believe the image was lit using a softbox- the softbox creates a soft, spread of light- placed at the right hand side of her. A reflector then at the left hand side to bounce light onto her left cheekbone and hair. 

The image below is of the 'ROTARY' watch. It's been described as a 'classic beauty'. The use of mirroring the watch creates a beautiful, crisp, classy effect.
The watch it also said to 'come with many beautiful features'. These beautiful features have had close up shots taken and are in the advert also. I believe it was taken using a macro lens so that all the detail could be captured crisply and so that the watch could fill the frame nicely.
A black background has been used- again creating a classy look- and I believe a snoot has been used as the light has been directed at the center focus point-being the clock-face. To avoid any reflected light, black card or a black board could have been used.
Post production:  been used to enhance this advert, and it's possible that the reflection has been altered or even created using photoshop.

source: www.retailtherapyshopping.com

Macro Photography-(table top) Introduction.

 Notes:

105mm Nikon Macro lens. 

• Same principles of 'lighting angles' apply, as with portraiture ect. 
• Shallow depth of field to reduce distance
• Reducing shutter speed by: Using a tripod, higher shutter speed, remote trigger-cable release 
• Pay extra attention to detail and composition due to how close up you will be
• Various coloured card- use
• Use a lens hood or black card to reduce 'lens flare'

Lighting Ratios

Key light listed first : Fill light listed second      
1:1 - Lights are equal          

2:1 - One stop difference    

3:1 - One and a half stops difference 

4:1 - Two stops difference

Need

• Bx Kit + Stands
• 105mm Macro lens-Nikon
• Tripod
• Skyport
• Reflector
• Softbox-snoot
• D80/D90
• Light metre 
• EX lead

I experimented with Macro lens and below are my results.
I shot in RAW.
Exposures: Aperture: f4, ISO: 200, Shutter speed: 1/125

Evaluation
This shoot was great fun but i found it more time consuming than portrait shooting. I would really love to do some more still life, macro.
It was fairly easy as the subject is still. I chose to use an xbox controller because there are plenty of buttons to allow experimenting with depth of field.
I chose the blue background because commonly, xbox is stereotyped as a 'boys' toy, this relates to the colour blue also being associated with males.
The first three photos that were taken are relatively dark compared to the rest and i later realised this was because I was standing in the way of the left light. 

LIGHTING DIAGRAM HERE 

Flash Lighting Introduction

ADD EXPOSURES 

Beauty Lighting

Beauty lighting is a successful way to create a flattering image that catches the light in the eyes of the model. 

It's great for making the model look fresh and soft to the eye. 

The softness is achieved by bouncing the light off an umbrella. 

Below is a diagram demonstrating the Beauty lighting studio setup.

The default angle for the light source is 0'.

Lighting diagram. 

I tested out Beauty lighting techniques and below is my result. I shot the images in RAW against a black backdrop.

Exposures:
Aperture:11
Shutter speed:1/125
ISO: 200

EQUIPMENT NEEDED

• BX500 kit (Only when shooting with black background)
• EX lead (Only when shooting with black background)
• D90/D80 camera
• Skyport
• Reflector
• Folding soft-box
• Reflective Umbrella
• Light metre 

Flash Introduction

Flash studio notes 

When using flash:

• Shutter speed is not an option
• Aperture, ISO, distance, power output and difusion/shapers are options you can change
• Diffusion: Snoot, reflector dish (honey cone?) and soft box
• You must sync camera and flash : Sync lead, infra-red trigger, radio trigger 
• Sync leads: D80/D90 need a hot-shoe adapter 
• Skyport(radio trigger): Press arrows together - R1 on, R0 off
• Set groups on skyport, choose channel

Health and safety:

• Only trained people should use the equipment
• Avoid model's or other people being too close to the flash equipment whilst shooting as the flash is very strong and eyesight may be at risk.
• Never leave the studio 
• Ensure all equipment is properly assembled 
• Make sure there is enough space to avoid trip hazards. 

Studio Lighting Portraiture techniques:

Rembrandt

Rembrandt lighting is often noticed when a triangle of light appears under the eye or a butterfly shape beneath the nose. 

Rembrandt lighting mainly focuses on contrast and shadows.

The image is effected by the angle of the light source. 

The diagram below is showing how typically Rembrandt lighting is set up.

I put this technique to practice and below is what I shot. 

Shot in RAW. 

I think I successfully captured the key triangle of light under the eye however I believe the models face should have filled the frame more and I should of paid attention to creating a bit of contrast and shadow to really divulge into Rembrandt lighting. 

Exposures
Aperture: f11
Shutter speed: 1/125
ISO: 200

First Studio Induction

Tungsten Lighting

Tungsten Light
source:http://www.jiscdigitalmedia.ac.uk

• More Costly than flash
• 300w | 650w | 800w | 1kw | 2kw (watts) 
• Each stop doubles or halves, eg: F8 to F11 = halves | F11 to F8 = doubles
• FRESNEL LENS- on ARRI light (tungsten)
• Clamp on the side moves the light up and down
• Knob at the back helps focus
• 'Barn Doors' control light 
• Front leg must be facing forward 

Health and Safety 

• The filament in the bulb gets fragile when hot, so take care when moving the lights around.
• Wear gloves to adjust 
• When finished, do not move light for 30 minutes.  
• Front leg of lighting tripod to point in the direction of the lighting head.

To the left is a contact sheet of all the photo's I took using Tungsten lighting. 
I shot on RAW. 

Exposures: 
ISO= 400 (all images taken)
003 
004    Aperture:F4 | SS:1/160
005

007 
008
009    Aperture:2.8 | SS:1/125
0010
0011
0035  Aperture:2.8 | SS:1/125
0039  White-balance: Daylight

By changing the white-balance, we discovered it made the image warmer. 


















LIGHTING DIAAGRAM NEEDED 

Photographers Who Changed Fashion-Rankin

Cecil Beaton
Born 1904 in London, England.
1920 he was hired as a staff photographer for 'Vogue' and 'Vanity Fair'.
He's responsible for 'My Fair Lady', more elaborate images and a classy but conservative feel. 

"I wanted to make something that didn't really look like a photo at all." -Cecil Beaton

His first camera was a Kodak 3A folding camera. During his career he equipped large format cameras and Rolleiflex cameras.  

Rankin wanted to create the 1934 photo in Vogue called 'The Hat Box'.

Below is the original, created by Beaton on a 10x8 film camera. 

Source: http://ikemuotoh.wordpress.com/2012/03/29/seven-images-that-changed-fashion/

Below is Rankin's re-created version of 'The Hat Box'.

He first made the image using a 10 x 8 monorail studio camera, and then moved on to digital. Rankin decided to use Sophie Ellis Bexter as the model as her beautiful 1930's look suited. 

Source: http://playwithtalent.blogspot.co.uk/2009_01_01_archive.html

I much prefer the original image taken in 1934 as Elsa Schiaparelli (the model) really captured a beautiful,  innocent expression which I feel Sophie could not. I also feel the proportions aren't the same, Sophie's head looks far too small compared to the box, as though she's been photoshopped in. 



Erwin Blumenfield

Born in 1897.
The innovator and pioneer of colour photography in fashion.
Worked with a 10x8 film. 
His work shows influence of surrealism. Direct, simple yet dramatic. 

Regarded as one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century. 

Produced an extensive body of work over the course of his 35 year career. 

He took more covers for 'Vogue' than any other photographer during his time. 

In the 1940's and 50's he became a fashion photographer for 'Vogue' and 'Harper's Bazaar'. 

"Blumenfield was all about visual experimentation. He was an innovative fashion photographer of his era and a pioneer for colour photography. His stunning Vogue cover in 1950 shows the influence of the surrealist but also shows the excitement of the country looking forward to the next century," - Rankin

The photo below was Blumenfield's 1950's Vogue cover-very famous worldwide- alongside Rankin's re-make. Blumenfield used model Jean Pratchett. The shot was originally taken in black and white; the colour was added when printing and the shadow under the lip was painted on.

Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk

Rankin used model Heidi Klum. He shot using a digital camera and edited using photoshop.
I thought Rankin's re-make worked terrifically giving the image a more cheeky, 21st century feel. I also like how he decided to keep the shadows of the nose.

Richard Avedon

Born in 1923 in America.   
First celebrity fashion photographer.
Best known for his work in the fashion world and for his minimalist portraits. 
Worked first as a photographer for the Merchant Marines, taking identification photos.
Moved to fashion, shooting for Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.

"His fashion and portrait photographs helped define America's image of style, beauty and culture for the last half-century." -New York Times

The photo below below is Avedon's 1955 'Dovima with Elephants'. 

Compositionally perfect. Rankin decided to used Erin O'Connor as Avedon had once pointed out to Erin that she was the young version of Dovima, also because of her tall frame and demeanor.
Rankin worked on digital using medium format. 

Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk/

I don't really have a favourite image as there are aspects of both that I like and dislike. 
Avedon's looks more graceful and there is a lot more movement coming from the elephants. 

I find Rankin's image more striking and I prefer the composition. 

David Bailey

Born 1938-East End.  

Regarded as one of the best British photographers
Became a photographic assistant at the John French studio, then photographer for John Cole's Studio Five before being contracted as a fashion photographer for British Vogue magazine in 1960.
Broke through the 'gentlemen's trade' with charm creating 'sex appeal'. 


The image Rankin decided to re-create was the personal, beautiful and intimate image of Jean Shrimpton- 1968 - his lover. (The image below)

Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk

It was taken on a Rolleiflex 6x6, medium format. 
This shot is glamorous yet completely natural, there were no make-up artists or hairdressers involved. 
The movement in her hair was created using a light piece of card as it's softer than a wind machine.


I love how Jean's body fills the frame, how her head is slightly facing away yet slightly at you creating this sexual intimacy. I also love the shadows created in her back and arms.  


Below is Rankin's version. Rankin decided to keep it authentic by using his girlfriend, Tuuli Shipster, as the model. 
Rankin decided upon using both the Rolleiflex and digital. David Bailey was on set the whole time. 

Source: http://thefrenchsampler.blogspot.co.uk

I think this photo would have been questioned as neither models are anything alike, however, Bailey's idea was to create this intimate, beautiful, classy image of his muse, who better for Rankin to choose than his mode girlfriend? 

I love how contemporary this show is, despite how Rankin stuck to Bailey's ways. Tuuli has a beauty about her that makes this image classy and sophisticating however I much prefer the original. 

Helmut Newton
1920-2004. 
A German-Australian photographer. 
Introduced the whole 'narrative' aspect to photography.
It's been said he blurs between the line of art and pornography. 
Newton’s reputation, both behind the lens and in front of it has earned him high praise from many of the most respected names in both art and fashion.
He is best know for his nude studies of women and particular the depiction of big, strong women in high heels.

The image Rankin decided to re-create was the 1975 'Rue Aubriot Vogue'. Below you will find the original alongside Rankin's re-created version. 

Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk/

Both were shot in Paris in the street outside Helmut's apartment called 'Rue Aubriot' which gave the recreated image that little extra nostalgic feel. Rankin has gone back to the same street for his shoot and is using models, Jade Parfitt and Mollie Gondi.

By far my favourite out of the whole collection, I love how they are near identical. 

Herb Ritts
Born in 1952.
One of the best-known fashion photographers before he was out of his twenties

Bought homoerotic to mainstream.  

Concentrated on black-and-white photography and portraits.
Very contrasted. 
He had this ability to make almost any subject look dramatic and interesting.
He created what he called Retro-Neo-Deco style.
He wanted to make beautiful images with beautiful people and in doing so was responsible for the way men were portrayed in fashion. 

The image 'Fred With Tyres' is the image Rankin decided to re-create. The image below shows the original alongside Rankin's. 

Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk

The image, when published in Vogue, was said to have caused quite a stir, however changed the face of fashion forever. 

Rankin shot his in a London scrap yard and invite David Gandy to shoot. 

I love both of these shots, they are beautifully composed and the tone of the image is spot on. 
Guy Bourdin
Born in 1928 in Paris. 
French fashion photographer. 
He like to capture a sense of trauma or hidden intention within his images. 
Apparently peculiar to work with-controlling-challenged people. 
Had a large influence over pop culture. 

'Sleazy glamour'. 

Had a tendency to overshoot. 

Used a lot of filters and various lighting. 

The image below is the photo Rankin decided to re-create alongside his version.

Shot in 1970- Untitled. 

Rankin chose the fashion designer/socialite/model Daphne Guinness. He also used the same kind of set however I'm not a fan of the outfit Rankin chose. Guy Bourdin's model, although looks over-revealing, she still looks sexy, you can see her legs and she looks relaxed despite being in a strange position. Rankin's model looks completely out of the right frame of mind, her outfit isn't sexy what so ever and she doesn't really resemble the original model at all. 

Source: http://michigangirl15.livejournal.com