Tuesday 5 February 2013

Photographers Who Changed Fashion-Rankin

Cecil Beaton
Born 1904 in London, England.
1920 he was hired as a staff photographer for 'Vogue' and 'Vanity Fair'.

He's responsible for 'My Fair Lady', more elaborate images and a classy but conservative feel. 

"I wanted to make something that didn't really look like a photo at all." -Cecil Beaton

His first camera was a Kodak 3A folding camera. During his career he equipped large format cameras and Rolleiflex cameras.  

Rankin wanted to create the 1934 photo in Vogue called 'The Hat Box'.
Below is the original, created by Beaton on a 10x8 film camera. 
Source: http://ikemuotoh.wordpress.com/2012/03/29/seven-images-that-changed-fashion/



Below is Rankin's re-created version of 'The Hat Box'.

He first made the image using a 10 x 8 monorail studio camera, and then moved on to digital. Rankin decided to use Sophie Ellis Bexter as the model as her beautiful 1930's look suited. 



Source: http://playwithtalent.blogspot.co.uk/2009_01_01_archive.html


















I much prefer the original image taken in 1934 as Elsa Schiaparelli (the model) really captured a beautiful,  innocent expression which I feel Sophie could not. I also feel the proportions aren't the same, Sophie's head looks far too small compared to the box, as though she's been photoshopped in. 



Erwin Blumenfield
Born in 1897.
The innovator and pioneer of colour photography in fashion.
Worked with a 10x8 film. 
His work shows influence of surrealism. Direct, simple yet dramatic. 
Regarded as one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century. 
Produced an extensive body of work over the course of his 35 year career. 
He took more covers for 'Vogue' than any other photographer during his time. 
In the 1940's and 50's he became a fashion photographer for 'Vogue' and 'Harper's Bazaar'. 


"Blumenfield was all about visual experimentation. He was an innovative fashion photographer of his era and a pioneer for colour photography. His stunning Vogue cover in 1950 shows the influence of the surrealist but also shows the excitement of the country looking forward to the next century," - Rankin

The photo below was Blumenfield's 1950's Vogue cover-very famous worldwide- alongside Rankin's re-make. Blumenfield used model Jean Pratchett. The shot was originally taken in black and white; the colour was added when printing and the shadow under the lip was painted on.
Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk
















Rankin used model Heidi Klum. He shot using a digital camera and edited using photoshop.
I thought Rankin's re-make worked terrifically giving the image a more cheeky, 21st century feel. I also like how he decided to keep the shadows of the nose.






Richard Avedon

Born in 1923 in America.   
First celebrity fashion photographer.
Best known for his work in the fashion world and for his minimalist portraits. 
Worked first as a photographer for the Merchant Marines, taking identification photos.
Moved to fashion, shooting for Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.


"His fashion and portrait photographs helped define America's image of style, beauty and culture for the last half-century." -New York Times

The photo below below is Avedon's 1955 'Dovima with Elephants'. 
Compositionally perfect. Rankin decided to used Erin O'Connor as Avedon had once pointed out to Erin that she was the young version of Dovima, also because of her tall frame and demeanor.
Rankin worked on digital using medium format. 
Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk/














I don't really have a favourite image as there are aspects of both that I like and dislike. 
Avedon's looks more graceful and there is a lot more movement coming from the elephants. 
I find Rankin's image more striking and I prefer the composition. 



David Bailey

Born 1938-East End.  
Regarded as one of the best British photographers
Became a photographic assistant at the John French studio, then photographer for John Cole's Studio Five before being contracted as a fashion photographer for British Vogue magazine in 1960.
Broke through the 'gentlemen's trade' with charm creating 'sex appeal'. 


The image Rankin decided to re-create was the personal, beautiful and intimate image of Jean Shrimpton- 1968 - his lover. (The image below)
Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk

It was taken on a Rolleiflex 6x6, medium format. 
This shot is glamorous yet completely natural, there were no make-up artists or hairdressers involved. 
The movement in her hair was created using a light piece of card as it's softer than a wind machine.


I love how Jean's body fills the frame, how her head is slightly facing away yet slightly at you creating this sexual intimacy. I also love the shadows created in her back and arms.  


Below is Rankin's version. Rankin decided to keep it authentic by using his girlfriend, Tuuli Shipster, as the model. 
Rankin decided upon using both the Rolleiflex and digital. David Bailey was on set the whole time. 
Source: http://thefrenchsampler.blogspot.co.uk













I think this photo would have been questioned as neither models are anything alike, however, Bailey's idea was to create this intimate, beautiful, classy image of his muse, who better for Rankin to choose than his mode girlfriend? 

I love how contemporary this show is, despite how Rankin stuck to Bailey's ways. Tuuli has a beauty about her that makes this image classy and sophisticating however I much prefer the original. 

Helmut Newton
1920-2004. 
A German-Australian photographer. 
Introduced the whole 'narrative' aspect to photography.
It's been said he blurs between the line of art and pornography. 
Newton’s reputation, both behind the lens and in front of it has earned him high praise from many of the most respected names in both art and fashion.
He is best know for his nude studies of women and particular the depiction of big, strong women in high heels.

The image Rankin decided to re-create was the 1975 'Rue Aubriot Vogue'. Below you will find the original alongside Rankin's re-created version. 


Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk/

Both were shot in Paris in the street outside Helmut's apartment called 'Rue Aubriot' which gave the recreated image that little extra nostalgic feel. Rankin has gone back to the same street for his shoot and is using models, Jade Parfitt and Mollie Gondi.

By far my favourite out of the whole collection, I love how they are near identical. 

Herb Ritts
Born in 1952.
One of the best-known fashion photographers before he was out of his twenties
Bought homoerotic to mainstream.  
Concentrated on black-and-white photography and portraits.
Very contrasted. 
He had this ability to make almost any subject look dramatic and interesting.
He created what he called Retro-Neo-Deco style.
He wanted to make beautiful images with beautiful people and in doing so was responsible for the way men were portrayed in fashion. 

The image 'Fred With Tyres' is the image Rankin decided to re-create. The image below shows the original alongside Rankin's. 
Source: http://ashleigh-chapman.blogspot.co.uk
The image, when published in Vogue, was said to have caused quite a stir, however changed the face of fashion forever. 
Rankin shot his in a London scrap yard and invite David Gandy to shoot. 
I love both of these shots, they are beautifully composed and the tone of the image is spot on. 
Guy Bourdin
Born in 1928 in Paris. 
French fashion photographer. 
He like to capture a sense of trauma or hidden intention within his images. 
Apparently peculiar to work with-controlling-challenged people. 
Had a large influence over pop culture. 
'Sleazy glamour'. 
Had a tendency to overshoot. 
Used a lot of filters and various lighting. 

The image below is the photo Rankin decided to re-create alongside his version.
Shot in 1970- Untitled. 
Rankin chose the fashion designer/socialite/model Daphne Guinness. He also used the same kind of set however I'm not a fan of the outfit Rankin chose. Guy Bourdin's model, although looks over-revealing, she still looks sexy, you can see her legs and she looks relaxed despite being in a strange position. Rankin's model looks completely out of the right frame of mind, her outfit isn't sexy what so ever and she doesn't really resemble the original model at all. 

Source: http://michigangirl15.livejournal.com



No comments:

Post a Comment